Price per person

CHOLATSE 6440M AND KYAJO RI 6186M

ASCEND TWO TECHNICAL PEAKS.

LESS CROWDED CLIMBS

2024 CHOLATSE 6440M & KYA JO RI 6186M

22 – 27 DAYS

EQUIPMENT RENTALS AVAILABLE (LINK)

GRADING (Alpine/Fitness): TD/5 (click for more grading Infos)

COST—

Cholatse & Kyajo Ri

$10,950 P/P

Cholatse Only

$7950 P/P

Kyajo Ri only

$6500 P/P

Please inquire about prices in your local currency. We accept payment in £GBP/ €EUROS/ $AUD

Deposit required: $1500 p/p

Solo booking accepted but subject to 4 climbing members

2024 CHOLATSE DEPARTURES—

4th – 30th November

All-inclusive expedition. Guaranteed departure.

SINGLE SUPPLEMENT—

$4000 USD Only applies if there is only 1 client member. Additional support.

Usefull Information

ACCOMMODATIONS

Day 1 – 2 and 26 (Kathmandu 5-star hotel)

KYAJO RI AND CHOLATSE EXPEDITION STRATEGY

KYAJO RI 6186M (TECHNICAL CLIMB + ACCLIMATIZATION PEAK)

Kyajo Ri, standing tall at 6186 meters, serves as an excellent acclimatization climb for the Cholatse expedition. This peak presents a technical challenge, offering climbers an opportunity to hone their skills before taking on the more demanding ascent of Cholatse. With its intricate routes and varying degrees of difficulty, Kyajo Ri provides a perfect platform for acclimatization while allowing climbers to familiarize themselves with steep sections and technical terrain.

Ascending Kyajo Ri not only aids in adjusting to higher altitudes but also offers panoramic vistas of the surrounding Himalayan landscape, including stunning views of the Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu peaks. Climbers can expect a mix of steep ascents, traverses, and snow/ice sections, preparing them adequately for the subsequent climb of Cholatse. Overall, Kyajo Ri stands as a valuable intermediate climb, preparing adventurers for the challenges that lie ahead on the grander ascent of Cholatse.

🏔Cholatse expedition consists of 2 high camps. We will climb through the southwest ridge route, which is the safest commercial route comparatively. Once established in Base Camp 5000M, we will set up a fixed-line and move loads to camp1-2 and summit. The harder and more technical climbing of this expedition begins from camp 1 leading up the southwest ridge of the mountain.

BASE CAMP (5000M), ICEFALL TO – CAMP 1 (5700M)

Cholatse Base Camp 4529M

We will have 1 to 2 acclimatization rotations. Once we leave the base camp and after hiking 400M high up the grassy moraine, we will arrive at the crampon point, which is about 100M away from the icefall. As we reach onto the icefall, climbing through the zigzag icefall route will lead us under the ice headwall which is about 150M high. The headwall is about 45-50 degrees. Climbers will have to fix themselves onto the fixed line rope and climb the wall, which leads to a flat section just above the west col. Here we will set up our camp 1 (5700M) on the flat small pleateu part above the col. The views down the valley to Gokyo valley are fantastic from here.

CAMP 1 (5600M) – CAMP 2 (6200M)

This will be the hardest part of the entire expedition. The route from camp 1 to camp 2 is about 600M high, on the southwest ridge of the mountain, which is super exposed and consists of mixed terrains. The climb is strenuous and there is just one small area to rest.

The first 100M – 150M is steep climbing, to the top of the rocky slab section. From there the route leads behind the ridge of the mountains on a rocky, loose and unstable area. The rocks are unstable and there is little protection when climbing up the face of the mountain. Climbers will have to scramble on exposed slabs (sometimes loose) rocks, which then leads to the end of the rocky section before reaching the nice flat part which is the only spot to rest before pressing ahead.

Cholatse Camp 2 6000M

The climb then follows an uphill steep climb onto the knife-edge ridge section, 400M upwards mostly on the snow/icy surface. The climb uphill is another 45 – 60 degrees steep. The drop on either side of the mountain ridge is crazily exposed. High above a big chunk of ice/snow hump can be seen, where our team will establish camp 2 (6200M). About 75M – 50M short of camp 2, the route gets rather challenging and uneven, where climbers will come across ice mushroom wall formations and seracs. Technical climbing skills are necessary. You will need to traverse and somewhat climb with alpine style, ice climbing to get navigate the uneven terrains to get to camp 2. Extra attention is needed to reach at the top where camp 2 will be established by the guiding team.

CAMP 2 – SUMMIT 6440M (TRUE SUMMIT 6446M)

The climb from Camp 2 to the summit is about 256m climbs. As you look up from camp 2 it does look like a fairly straight climb but the route gets super narrow and steep on both sides. Another knife-edge section and a couple of crevasse openings on the route. The climb gets technical and difficult. Climbers will have to be careful at this height of not slipping onto any sides of the mountain. Once past the ridge section, you will come upon a relatively flatter area on the summit at around 6440M. The true summit lies 5M – 6M ahead but is very tricky with just a small pyramid structure that may hold only one person at a time.

Equipment List

Mountain climbing Gears

• Helmet (Black diamond, Petzel, Kailas, Grivel)
• Alpine Ice Axe (65-70cm)
• A mountaineering harness, with adjustable leg loops.
• Carabiners: 3 locking and 6 regular
• Rappel device: ATC or figure 8

Mountaineering boots

• Mountaineering boots suitable for above 8000m; La Sportiva or equivalent
• Hiking shoes for the trek to base camp with ankle protection
• Thermal mountaineering socks or equivalent: 6 pairs
• Liner socks or equivalent: 6 pairs

Body Layers:

• Expedition suits – North face Himalayan suit or similat
• 4 merino base layers: top / bottom set
• 5 mid layer top: breathable Underwear
• Lightweight Nylon Pants: 1 pair
• Hooded Soft Shell jacket To be worn over other layers
• Soft Shell Guide Pants: Gore Tex and breathable
• Hooded Hard Shell: Gore Tex and breathable
• Hard Shell Pants: Gore Tex and breathable, big enough to wear over your guide trousers
• Insulated Down Jacket with hood: North Face Himalayan parka or equivalent
• Insulated synthetic Pants: Worn primarily when climbing below Camp 2
• Long jones equivalent to Rab’s Polartec or equivalent: 2 pairs

Headgear and Hand wear:

• Wool hat (ski hat)
• Sunhat: To shade your face / neck from the sun on a hot day
• Buff: To protect your neck / face from the sun
• Glacier glasses: Full protection with side covers or wrap around
• Ski goggles: To be worn on summit day in the event of high winds
• Lightweight synthetic liner gloves: For wearing on a hot day; 2 pairs
• Soft shell gloves: To wear for moderate cold / wind
• Shell glove with insulated liner: To wear for severe cold / strong wind
• Expedition Mitts for bad weather

Personal Gear:

• Expedition Backpack: 65L pack should be large enough.
• Trekking Backpack: To carry on the trek to base camp. Simple and light.
• Sleeping Bag: Rated to at least -40°F. Goose down or synthetic
• Compression stuff sacks: 3 large ones; for reducing volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc., in your pack.
• High Quality sleeping pad (1 for base camp and 1 for high camps): Full length is preferred.
• Closed cell foam pad: To be used in conjunction with the inflating pad for warmth and comfort when sleeping.
• Trekking poles with snow baskets: Adjustable poles
• Cup: Plastic insulated cup for drinking
• Bowl: A plastic bowl for eating dinner or breakfast
• Spoon: Plastic spoon
• Head torch: 1 normal for base camp and 1 with remote battery systems for climbing at night. This will be used whilst climbing at night
• Sunscreen: SPF 50 or above
• Lip balm with sunblock
• Water bottles: 2 wide mouth bottles with 1 litter capacity
• Water bottle parkas (2): fully insulated with zip opening
• Thermos: 1 litre (buy a good ones to keep your water warm for longer hours)
• Pee bottle: 1 litre minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent
• Toiletry bag: Include toilet paper and hand sanitizer and small towel
• Hand warmers & toe warmers
• Pen Knife or multi tool (optional)
• Camera: bring extra batteries and memory cards
• Personal solar charging system (optional but recommended)
• Travel Clothes
• Duffel bags (2) with locks: To transport equipment
• Base Camp extra Items: Kindle, I pad, smart phone, etc
• Snack food: Please bring a few days of your favourite climbing snack food such as bars, gels, nuts, beef jerky, etc. A variety of salty and sweet is recommended to give you extra energy.
• Small personal first aid kit: Include athletic tape, Band-Aid’s, Ibuprofen, blister care, personal medications, etc
• Medications and Prescriptions: Bring antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), and altitude medicine such as Diamox and dexamethasone*